How Princess Karam of Kapurthala inspired Schiaparelli’s saree-gown in 1935! – The Times of India
Fashion has always been a dialogue between cultures, and few figures embody this interplay as elegantly as Princess Karam of Kapurthala. A style icon of her time, she seamlessly blended Indian heritage with European haute couture, leaving an indelible mark on the fashion landscape. Her impeccable taste, distinctive features, and ability to command attention in both sarees and French couture caught the eye of legendary designers, most notably Elsa Schiaparelli.
The summer of 1934 saw the princess arrive in Paris, draped in a saree that would ignite the imagination of Schiaparelli. The saree’s elegance, its fluidity, and the regal manner in which the princess carried it became the inspiration behind Schiaparelli’s 1935 collection, Stop, Look and Listen. This collection was a study in drapery, featuring evening gowns that mimicked the effortless fall of a saree. One particular design, a black rayon gown adorned with pink and yellow embroidered borders, was so well received that it found its way to the shelves of Bergdorf Goodman in the United States, a testament to its global appeal.
Even today, Schiaparelli’s admiration for the princess continues to influence fashion. A red hooded dress, draped and gathered in a way that echoes the saree’s form, remains available on the brand’s website, paying homage to Princess Karam’s undeniable impact on couture. The caption accompanying it reads, “Inspired by reveries of the young Princess Karam of Kapurthala’s beautiful saree” reaffirming her place in the annals of high fashion.
Beyond being a muse, Princess Karam was a fashion connoisseur in her own right. Her wardrobe was a blend of Indian and European influences, a visual representation of her cosmopolitan persona. She graced the pages of American Vogue, her versatility showcased through a series of portraits that captured her in both traditional Indian attire and Western ensembles. Whether adorned in a luxurious saree with exquisite jewels or wrapped in a black silver fox coat with emeralds and diamonds cascading down her neck, she exuded a rare sophistication that transcended borders.
Her patronage extended to the crème de la crème of French couture, with names like Madeleine Vionnet, Jeanne Paquin, Coco Chanel, and Jeanne Lanvin among her favoured designers. She possessed a keen eye for craftsmanship, selecting pieces that complemented her regal bearing while embracing contemporary European silhouettes. This fusion of styles positioned her as a continental legend, admired for her effortless ability to bridge the gap between two distinct fashion worlds.
Princess Karam of Kapurthala’s legacy endures, not just in archival photographs or museum collections, but in the very ethos of fashion today. The modern fascination with draped silhouettes, saree-inspired couture, and cross-cultural aesthetics can all trace their lineage back to icons like her, women who understood that true style is not just about what one wears, but how one wears it. Her story remains a powerful example of the seamless confluence of tradition and modernity, a narrative that continues to inspire designers and fashion lovers alike.
