“Mr Mukherjee, you cannot die”: How a fleeting airport encounter shaped Sabyasachi Mukherjee’s legacy – The Times of India
A fleeting encounter at New Delhi airport left designer Sabyasachi Mukherjee deeply moved. A young woman stopped him and said, “Mr Mukherjee, you cannot die.” Startled, he asked why. Her response was profound- “Your brand stands for something bigger. What will happen to us if you’re not there?” That moment cemented a realisation: Sabyasachi was no longer just a label; it had become a cultural movement.
For 25 years, Sabyasachi has been synonymous with heritage-rich fashion, but his ambitions stretch beyond personal ownership. In 2021, he made a game-changing decision – selling a 51% stake of his company to the Aditya Birla Group. This wasn’t about relinquishing control; it was about securing his brand’s longevity.
“Entrepreneurs often let personal ego dictate their decisions. They hold on for too long, and when they fade, so does their brand,” he shared in an interview with CNBC-TV18. “I was certain – Sabyasachi had to outlive me.”
Rather than tethering his brand to a single identity, he sought to create an institution that could thrive beyond his presence. “I told Mr Birla – this company doesn’t belong to me or you. It belongs to the country, and we must build it with that in mind,” he stated.
Redefining Indian luxury
When Sabyasachi began his journey in Kolkata, fashion in India largely mirrored Western aesthetics. But he envisioned a different path – one rooted in indigenous textiles, elaborate embroidery, and unfiltered opulence. His maximalist sensibility rejected Eurocentric definitions of luxury, instead embracing India’s rich craftsmanship.
“I never saw India as a third-world country,” he asserted. “I always viewed it as a first-world civilization.” He credits icons like Satyajit Ray, Ritwik Ghatak, and Rabindranath Tagore for shaping his worldview, pushing him to present India’s artistry on a global stage.
“Luxury isn’t about submission; it’s about self-assurance,” he explains. “Our biggest hurdle has always been our reluctance to believe in our own excellence.”
A brand built to last
At 51, Sabyasachi’s focus has shifted from personal legacy to institutional permanence. Unlike traditional family-run businesses, he doesn’t believe in passing the torch based on inheritance.
“Even if I had children, they wouldn’t inherit the brand unless they were qualified,” he says candidly. His goal is to transform Sabyasachi into a “corporate Sabya” – a brand strong enough to exist independently of him.
His journey is more than a fashion success story; it’s a lesson in breaking barriers. “If a middle-class boy from Kolkata can challenge the status quo, so can anyone else,” he reflects.
For Sabyasachi, the future isn’t about being at the helm forever – it’s about ensuring that his brand, like the craft it champions, stands the test of time.
